All you have heard people say is take sunscreen on two fingers and apply 30 minutes before leaving home. But what’s the science behind sunscreen? How to choose a sunscreen that suits your skin? Let’s discuss the details!
What is sunscreen and why do we need it?
Sunscreen is a skincare product designed to protect the skin by blocking or filtering harmful sun rays.
The sun emits ultraviolet (UV) rays, which can damage your skin in the following ways:
- Skin Cancer: Prolonged exposure to UV rays is the leading cause of skin cancer globally. While less common in India, the numbers are increasing.
- Skin Aging: UV exposure contributes to premature aging, causing wrinkles and age spots.
- Pigmentation: It worsens hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.
Ten years ago, the concept of sunscreen was almost unheard of in India. Skincare awareness was limited, and most households relied on just a single soap and occasionally a moisturizer. Today, the importance of sunscreen is widely recognized, and its usage continues to grow.
Types of sunscreen and understanding SPF
Sunscreens come in various forms: creams, gels, lotions, sprays, sticks, powders, and serums. Based on their composition, they are categorized into:
- Physical (Mineral) Sunscreens: These create a physical barrier that reflects UV rays.
- Chemical Sunscreens: These absorb UV rays and release them as heat.
What is SPF?
SPF, or Sun Protection Factor, measures how well a sunscreen protects against UVB rays (which cause sunburn). Here’s a quick guide:
- SPF 15: Blocks 93% of UVB rays
- SPF 50: Blocks 98%
- SPF 30: Blocks 97%
- SPF 100: Blocks 99%
However, SPF alone doesn’t cover UVA rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin and cause aging.
For UVA protection, look for terms like "broad-spectrum protection" or the PA+ rating (e.g., PA++, PA+++, PA++++).
How does sunscreen work?
Physical Sunscreens: Reflect UV rays and may absorb some as well. These often leave a white cast. Chemical Sunscreens: Absorb UV rays and convert them to heat.
Both types are effective but differ in texture and skin suitability.
How to know which sunscreen is right for you?
Choosing the right sunscreen depends on your skin type and concerns:
- Dry Skin: Cream-based sunscreens work best.
- Oily Skin: Opt for gel-based or oil-free sunscreens.
- Combination Skin: Lotion-based or lightweight gel sunscreens work well.
- Sensitive Skin: Stick to physical, fragrance free sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.
- Aging and Pigmentation Issues: Choose sunscreens with high UVA protection (PA+++ or higher).
- Acne-Prone Skin: Avoid experimenting too much. Patch-test is important but even more important for acne-prone skin.
To maximize the benefits of sunscreen make sure you follow these steps:
What is the difference between SPF Moisturizers, SPF Makeup, Spray Sunscreens, and Oral SPF Supplements?
SPF Moisturizers: While convenient, most SPF moisturizers are SPF 15 and not broad-spectrum, which isn’t enough. Plus, the amount we typically apply is often inadequate for proper sun protection. If you use one, go for SPF 30+ with broad-spectrum coverage and follow the 2-finger rule.
SPF Makeup: Similar to SPF moisturizers, SPF makeup can’t replace sunscreen. It’s hard to apply enough for full coverage, so think of it as an add-on, not your primary protection.
Spray Sunscreens: For adults, spray sunscreens are fine if used correctly. Test how much spray equals a quarter teaspoon (the amount needed for your face). Spray on your hand first and then apply evenly to avoid inhalation risks.
Oral SPF Supplements: Ingredients like Polypodium leucotomas claim SPF benefits but studies show protection equivalent to SPF 5 at best. They’re not a substitute for sunscreen and, in my opinion, not worth the money.
Right Age to Start Sunscreen: Sun protection starts at birth with shade and protective clothing. The AAD advises using sunscreen on babies older than six months.
Some commonly asked questions about sunscreen:
1. How to layer sunscreen with makeup?
Sunscreen is ideally applied as the last step of your skincare routine — right after your moisturizer.
- If you use makeup, wait 15–20 minutes after applying sunscreen to allow it to fully set.
- Post this, gently apply makeup, patting it on wherever possible to avoid disrupting the sunscreen layer.
- You can also use makeup products with SPF for added protection, but these should never replace your actual sunscreen.
2. How to reapply sunscreen over makeup?
Reapplying sunscreen over makeup can seem tricky, but it’s essential for protection:
- Use a cushion applicator or puff to reapply sunscreen. These absorb less product and help avoid a cakey look.
- Perfect coverage is tough to achieve during reapplication, but focusing on even and efficient application ensures good protection.
3. What about body sunscreens?
- Body sunscreens and face sunscreens generally contain the same active ingredients. The key difference is in the base formulation.
- Face sunscreens are usually lighter, non-comedogenic, and fragrance-free.
- You can use your face sunscreen on your body without any issues, but body sunscreens might feel heavier if used on the face.
4. Are sunscreens safe during pregnancy?
Yes! Sunscreens are generally safe during pregnancy and lactation. Studies show very minimal systemic absorption of sunscreen ingredients.
- For added safety, physical (mineral) sunscreens are often preferred as they contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which are gentle and less likely to cause irritation.
5. What are water-resistant sunscreens?
- Water-resistant does not mean waterproof.
- If labeled “water-resistant,” the sunscreen remains effective for 40 minutes in water.
- “Very water-resistant” means it works for 80 minutes in water, after which reapplication is necessary.
6. Why reapply sunscreen every 2–3 Hours?
The effectiveness of sunscreen diminishes over time due to:
- Sun exposure
- Sweat
- Friction from clothing or touch
- This is why dermatologists recommend reapplying every 2–3 hours for optimal sun protection.
7. Burning or watery eyes from sunscreen?
Burning or stinging eyes often occur due to chemical sunscreen ingredients like avobenzone.
- Solution: Opt for physical sunscreens that are gentler and less likely to irritate your eyes.
8. Should you use regular sunscreen on lips?
While regular sunscreen can be used on lips, its texture may feel odd and less long-lasting.
- A better option is an SPF lip balm, such as Sebamed Lip Defense SPF 30, which is effective and comfortable for lips.
9. Are powder sunscreens effective?
Powder sunscreens are convenient but not a complete replacement for traditional ones:
- They are best used for touch-ups or to mattify a shiny finish.
- It’s challenging to achieve the right quantity for full protection using powder sunscreen alone.
10. Can you use body sunscreen on your face and vice versa?
Yes, you can!
- However, body sunscreens are often heavier, so they might feel uncomfortable on the face. If you’re okay with the texture, they work just as well.
11. What about sunscreen sprays?
- To apply the correct amount, check how many sprays are required to fill a quarter teaspoon for your face and neck.
- Ensure even coverage by spraying in layers and letting each layer dry.
- Avoid inhaling spray sunscreens—apply on your hands and then pat onto your face for safer application.
12. How to use sunscreen sticks?
Sunscreen sticks are convenient but may not provide reliable coverage due to ambiguity in application guidelines:
- The AAD recommends four back-and-forth passes per area.
- Rub the sunscreen afterward to ensure even distribution.
- However, this method can be tedious and may leave the skin greasy. Sticks are best used as a supplementary method of application.
Sunscreen is not just a trend; it’s an essential part of skincare. With rising awareness in India, it’s important to choose the right sunscreen based on your needs, apply it correctly, and make it a consistent habit. However, with the growing awareness also come some common myths and misconceptions about sunscreen:
1. It leaves a white cast or feels greasy
Yes, physical sunscreens can leave a white cast, and many sunscreens may feel greasy due to their thick texture. Here’s what you can do:
- Use blotting paper to dab excess oil (don’t rub!).
- Use a mattifying or translucent powder.
- Explore lightweight, oil-free sunscreen options.
2. Sunscreen darkens the skin
This is a misconception. The “darkening” is often a greyish hue caused by the white cast on Indian skin tones. It does not mean your skin is getting darker.
3. Do you need sunscreen indoors?
Yes! UVA rays can penetrate glass windows, so sunscreen is essential even indoors, during cloudy weather, or when it’s raining.
4. Does sunscreen cause vitamin D deficiency?
No! Studies show sunscreen does not prevent vitamin D synthesis. For adequate vitamin D, 10–20 minutes of sun exposure on uncovered areas, 2–3 times a week, is sufficient.
5. Does sunscreen cause hormonal imbalances?
Some studies link oxybenzone to hormonal disruption, but it would take over 250 years of regular sunscreen use for this to become a concern. Many sunscreens now use alternative UV filters, so you can skip oxybenzone if you’re worried.
Hope these answers help clear all your doubts and you understand the importance of whether you’re indoors or outdoors, sunscreen is non-negotiable! Protect your skin today to ensure it stays healthy and youthful for years to come!